Question: Hey Trevor, Our field is in lower Manhattan, two blocks from Ground Zero. We're waiting for the weather to allow us to sod it with an athletic field mix. What is the latest date that we can get our sod down so that it will have time to knit with the underlying soil and be ready by opening day, April 6th? Are we already too late? Thanks, Dana.

Answer: I DONT KNOW WHAT YOUR WEATHER CONDITIONS ARE LIKE BUT YOU ARE PUSHING THE ENVELOPE. WITH THAT BEING SAID THERE ARE OPTIONS AND POSSIBILITIES. YOU CAN ALWAYS SOD WITH A THICKER SOD. THREE QUARTER INCH SOIL SHOULD GIVE YOU ENOUGH WEIGHT THAT YOU WONT HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT MOVEMENT. IT WILL COST MORE HOWEVER. THE KEY WILL BE TO GET A GREAT INSTALL WITH NO GAPS  AND BUTTED TOGETHER TIGHT. THE PROBLEM WITH PLAYING ON RECENTLY LAID SOD IS THAT THERE ARE NO ROOTS TO HELP WITH PLANT RECOVERY. YOU WILL NEED TO BABY THE SOD ALONG AND PROMOTE ROOT GROWTH. USE A STARTER FERTILIZER AND IF POSSIBLE SOME ROOT STIMULANTS AND MINIMIZE THE TRAFFIC WHEN POSSIBLE. HOPE THIS HELPS...

Question: I'm looking to construct a bullpen in my backyard, but i don't know where to begin. What kind of supplies would i need and do you have building designs that could help me? Any kind of feedback would be greatly appreciated... Thank you.

Answer: YOU WILL NEED 2- 2X 12S 12 FEET LONG AND 1- 2X 12 8 FEET LONG. 4 CORNER BRACKETS.  WHEN BUILDING A BACKYARD BULLPEN I ALWAYS USE A FRAME. THIS WILL CONTAIN EVERYTHING AND ALSO GIVE YOU A GUIDE WHEN REPAIRING IT IN THE FUTURE. YOUR TABLE WILL BE 8 FEET WIDE  SO YOU CAN FRAME THE TABLE AND THE LANDING AREA WITH THE WOOD. A MOUND IS SUPPOSE TO DROP 1 INCH EVERY FOOT  SO WE WILL CUT THE 12 FOOT 2 BY 12S AND THAT ANGLE. REMEMBER TO ALLOW  A 4FEET OF FLAT AREA THIS WILL CREATE THE TABLE AREA ALLOW FOR THE 6 INCH RUBBER AND 6 INCHES FLAT IN FRONT OF THE RUBBER. TAKE YOUR 2X12 AND MEASURE 4FT. THEN  MEASURE ANOTHER FOOT AND MAKE A MARK 1 INCH DOWN THEN ANOTHER FOOT AND A MARK 2 INCHES DOWN. CONTINUE THIS FOR EIGHT FEET AND WHEN DONE WITH ALL THE MEASURING CONNECT YOUR MARKS AND YOU HAVE CREATED THE SLOPE FOR THE MOUND CUT THE BOARD  AND THEN USE THAT  BOARD AS A TEMPLATE FOR YOUR OTHER BOARD AND THEN CUT IT. NOW SECURE ALL THREE BOARDS TOGETHER WITH YOUR CORNER MOUNTS. MAKE SURE YOU BUY HEAVY DUTY CORNER BRACKETS. ONCE SECURE FILL YOUR FRAME WORK WITH CLAY. ADD COMPACT ADD COMPACT ADD COMPACT . DONT TRY TO ADD ALL THE CLAY AT ONCE. ONCE YOU HAVE IT FULL AND COMPACTED YOU CAN CUT OUT AND PLACE THE RUBBER. MAKE MARKS ON THE BOARDS SO THE RUBBER IS PLACED IN THE CENTER AND IS NOT TILTED. KEEP YOUR SCRAP LUMBER AND FOR REPAIRS OF THE MOUND YOU CAN USE THE FRAME TO YOUR ADVANTAGE AND USE THE SCRAP AS A SCREED BOARD AND SLIDE IT DOWN TO FILL IN LOW SPOTS.
  
WITH ALL THIS SAID REMEMBER A MOUND IS SUPPOSE TO BE 10 INCHES ABOVE THE PLATE SO PLACE THIS IN A SPOT THAT IS FAIRLY LEVELTHE 2X12 ACTUALLY MEASURES 11.5 AND THROUGH SETTLEMEMT YOU SHOULD BE IN GREAT SHAPE. HOPE THIS HELPS...IT NORMALLY TAKES ABOUT 4 TO 5 TONS DEPENDING ON HOW BIG YOU MAKE YOUR MOUND, AS IN WIDTH AND DEPTH OF TABLE. GOOD LUCK.

Question: Can patterned lines be created with a rotary mower, if I put a roller behind the mower? What type of paint should be used to create designs in the grass?

Answer: YES YOU CAN USE A ROTARY MOWER TO CREATE STRIPING. YOU CAN USE A ROLLER OR ANYTHING THAT HAS ENOUGH WEIGHT TO LAY THE BLADE OF THE GRASS OVER. MOST MOWERS HAVE A PROTECTIVE FLAP ON THE BACK, BY SECURING A BAR ON IT THAT WILL ALSO WORK. ALWAYS REMEMBER SAFETY FIRST DONT INTERFERE WITH THE MOWING UNIT.

YOUR SECOND QUESTION CONCERNING PAINT. ALWAYS USE WATER BASED PAINTS ON GRASS  OTHERS WILL SETBACK OR POSSIBLY KILL YOUR GRASS. HOPE THIS HELPS. GOOD LUCK.

Question: After a game, what kind of maintenance do you perform on the pitchers mound,ie-physically & whatever material you may use to keep it game ready. Thanks.

Answer: BOB, AFTER EVERY GAME OR ANY USE WE REPACK THE MOUND. YOU NEED TO FIND A GOOD PACKING CLAY THAT IS EASY TO WORK WITH. SWEEP OUT ALL LOW SPOTS AND HOLES, WET DOWN THE AREA LIGHTLY  TO HELP THE NEW CLAY BIND WITH THE OLD CLAY FILL HOLE AND TAMP FIRMLY UNTIL LEVEL WITH SURROUNDING AREAS. IT WILL BE MUCH CLEANER AND EASY TO MAINTAIN ALSO IF YOU WILL RAKE ALL THE CLUMPS AND LARGE PARTICLE SIZES OFF THE MOUND. IT WILL  MAT UP SMOOTHLY AND GIVE YOU A NICE FINISHED PRODUCT. ONCE MATTED YOU SHOULD WET DOWN MOUND AND THEN COVER TO KEEP MOISTURE IN THE MOUND. IT HELPS IF YOU YOU CAN PROVIDE THE MOUND WITH A LIGHT APPLICATION OF CONDITIONER THAT WILL WORK AS A BUFFER FROM THE SUN AND ALSO GIVE YOU SOMETHING TO MAT WITH TO PROVIDE A SMOOTH SURFACE. GOOD LUCK..

Question: I Have always overseeded with a rye mixture.  This year the price of the rye has gone up, way up.  I am planning on just using annual rye because it is cheap.  Someone told me that a lot of golf courses use poanna annua.  Is this something I would want to try or is there a better option? Bob

Answer:BOB, YES A LOT OF PEOPLE HAVE STARTED TO USE POANNA , IT DOESNT ROOT DOWN AS WELL AS RYES DO AND USUALLY WILL TRANSITION QUICKER THAN RYES. REMEMBER  HOWEVER THAT WITH IT NOT ROOTING DOWN AS WELL YOU COULD HAVE MORE DIVOTS THAN WITH RYE GRASS. ANNUAL RYE GRASS WORKS FINE ALSO. THE KEY TO OVERSEEDING AND HAVING A SUCCESSFUL TRANSITION IS NOT TO PROMOTE DEEP ROOTING AND TO CHOOSE A LESSOR QUALITY SEED. ONE THAT DOESNT HAVE A HIGH HEAT TOLERANCE. SO IT CAN TRANSITION EARLY WHEN YOUR WEATHER WARMS UP. HOPE THIS HELPS.

Question: How can we help to prevent the clay from getting soft where you lead off at first and where you slide into second? Tamping does not do much to help it....

Answer: JESSE, IS THE CLAY SOFT OR DO HAVE TO MUCH CONDITIONER IN THOSE AREAS? THOSE ARE TWO HEAVY TRAFFIC AREAS THAT WILL GET LOW IN TIME AND COULD HOLD WATER MORE, IN RETURN ALLOWING THEM TO STAY SOFT.WE USUALLY TIRE ROLL THOSE AREA'S.. BUT MAKE SURE YOU ARE LEVEL FIRST, YOU DONT WANT TO TIRE ROLL AND COMPACT LOW SPOTS.THAT WILL JUST MAKE YOUR PROBLEM WORSE. DO YOU WET DOWN YOUR FIELD THROUGHOUT THE DAY OR BEFORE THE GAME? IF SO BACK OFF THE WATER THERE AND LET THOSE AREAS BAKE A LITTLE MORE SO THEY FIRM UP. HOPE THIS HELPS. TREVOR VANCE

Question: I work with a limited budget.  My school district will only purchase red sand for my infield.  Anything else, I need to purchase out of my fundraising money.  My problem is, the infield gets very soft.  I drag it and water after each use and this helps for a short time.  I am looking for an inexpensive way to firm up my infield.

Answer: DAVID, I WOULD START ADDING  CLAY TO THE INFIELD. IS THERE ANY CONTRACTORS AROUND THAT EXCAVATE CLAY? SOME HOME BUILDERS MIGHT BE ABLE TO LEAD YOU IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION. OR IF POSSIBLE BUYING A TRUCKLOAD OF MOUND CLAY FROM DIAMOND PRO AND INCORPARATING IT INTO YOUR INFIELD SHOULD FIRM IT UP. YOU WOULD WANT TO ROTOTIL IT IN AND THEN LEVEL YOUR SURFACE. HOPE THIS HELPS ANY OTHER QUESTIONS DON'T HESITATE TO ASK.

Q & A from Jamie Mehringer

Question: Our infield has always been bermuda. Early this spring we pulled that and sodded heat tolerant blue. The sod was 1 1/2 - 2" thick. We got a late start and started playing on the new surface. Just as you would expect there are places with extreme wear. we also found grubs in the sod and there as been no significant rain since april. Our only supply of water is through the city. I don't know if the benefits of this water is as good as untreated water (ie river water). We fertilized, limed, used grub control, and watered. Most of the infield came out o.k. We do have significant bad areas. Mainly, in high stress areas. What suggestions would you make for our post season maintainance plan? Also, when should do our aerification and seeding. Is bluegrass a good choice or should we seed with other grasses? Thanks, Jason.

Answer: Let’s break this down into a number of areas.
1. Water source/supply – As you know, water is a necessary piece of the puzzle to keep the turf canopy at an “acceptable” level. So, while you may prefer the use of river water, the city source will be sufficient. In fact, our field is irrigated with a city water supply.

2. High stress areas – These areas will always be a challenge. Remember that you can easily buy seed that matches your sod since you used heat-tolerant blue. Always throw seed in these areas so the athletes can “cleat in the seed” during the games. Also, try to aerify these areas frequently. If the soil is compacted, the chance of the existing turf surviving and the new seed germinating becomes very difficult. Fertilize frequently, there should be at least 5 Lbs N/1000/ sq ft. applied to the turf annually. Wear is due at times to the fact that the turf has not been fertilized properly. Finally, to help these areas along, always apply a little extra water each day with a garden hose to supplement the normal irrigation.

3. Post-season plan – All “major” work to heat tolerant blue should begin around Sept. 1 each year. See a typical schedule:

Sept. 1 – aerify field, seed field – use the same heat tolerant blue, drag cores back into field (this will aid the seed to soil contact for the seed), fertilize – Use a product with approx. 30% slow release nitrogen(1 lb./N/1000 sq.ft), irrigate everything in

Oct. 1 - aerify field, seed field – use the same heat tolerant blue, drag cores back into field (this will aid the seed to soil contact for the seed), fertilize – Use a product with approx. 100 % quickly available nitrogen (1 lb./N/1000 sq.ft), irrigate everything in

Nov 15 - fertilize – Use a product with approx. 100 % quickly available nitrogen (1 lb./N/1000 sq.ft), irrigate everything in

As you can see, stay with the heat tolerant blue. I’m sure the expense was substantial for the new sod that is 100% heat tolerant blue, so stay with it. Give it a couple of seasons before you arrive at a conclusion on the success of the relatively new blend. Best of luck!

Q & A from Tom Burns

Question: We have a pithers mound and batters box that we previously installed clay bricks. I am attempting to repair some worn spots with the mound/plate clay. After I put it down while it is drying the clay is cracking baddly. it doesn't seem to want to adhere to the previous layer. I followed the directions, wetted the surface and added 1 inch layers and tamped. how can I keep the clay from cracking? John

Answer: John, thanks for your question. I believe that your problem is being caused by the lack of sufficient moisture in the existing clay base that you are trying to repair. I suggest that you try soaking the mound and plate a day before you do the repairs. The key to maintaining a good mound and batters boxes is to have the proper moisture in the clay base. This moisture will help prevent the clay from shrinking and cracking. When I worked for the Rangers, we would sweep out the holes in the batters boxes after the game and soak the plate after the game ended. When we came in the next morning the water had soaked into the base clay and was ready to be repaired. Try this and see if it helps. Go easy at first. You don’t want to get it too wet and turn it to a mud pit. With a little experimentation you will find the proper moisture content for your field, and your mound and plate will hold up better. Also, if it is possible, using a tarp will help manage the moisture content when the field is not in use

Question: We need to re-seed part of our field. Is it too late to do this to make a difference?

Answer: Re-seeding your infield in January it not the ideal time. I am assuming that your infield is Bermuda grass. Your only viable option at this time of year is to use ryegrass. It will be difficult to establish a good stand at this time of year, especially if you are playing now.

Ryegrass is the only option right now but I would recommend that you do everything possible to thicken up your Bermuda this spring and summer. You can use a seeded variety of Bermuda or use a vigorous program of aerification and vertical mowing along with a sound fertilization program to increase the density of your turf. Hope this helps. Good luck.

Question: We are considering installing a warning track along the outfield wall, backstop, foul lines and dugouts. Is there a standard with respect to width? What materials should we consider and what are the pros & cons of each? What depth should we skin and what should we do to prevent ponding? What do you recommend to prevent vegetation growth?

Answer: Tom, the general rule of thumb for width is two and one half strides for a player. I feel that for a high school player this will be ten to twelve feet in width.

The purpose of the track is to provide a change in texture so a player can sense that they are approaching a barrier. I think that an aggregate such as crushed stone or brick mixed with a clay binder is the best thing to look for. These materials should be no larger than ¼”.  This will give you a stable, well draining surface that is easy to maintain, safe and durable. Check out the guide from ASTM #2270-04 for a complete guide.

Three inches is the standard depth and grade away from the field to promote drainage. Weed prevention is similar to your infield skin surface.

Question: We are planning an infield renovation this year. What is the difference between Diamond Pro Calcined Clay and Turface, and what are the benefits of choosing Diamond Pro Over Turface?

Answer: Charles, To be perfectly honest, there is not much difference between Diamond Pro calcined clay and Turface calcined clay. There is however a big difference between Diamond Pro Infield Conditioner and Turface. Diamond Pro Infield conditioner is a vitrified expanded shale/clay product. It is manufactured in much the same way as calcined clay but is heated to a much higher temperature (2000° F) thus making a harder more durable particle. Diamond Pro Infield Conditioner has a natural red color and will not break down when stored out side in the weather. It is a great amendment for high clay content fields to improve water infiltration and improve traction in rainy conditions. It can be purchased in bulk or bags and its higher bulk density means it is less likely to be moved by wind and rain.

Question: We are looking at resurfacing our baseball infield. We are looking at a cost effective way to fix this. We currently have an aglime suface. We were looking at Red Shale to cover it and make a new surface or Diamond Pro's Red Infield Conditioner. We have a field master that we use on the field now to break up the surface so it is soft enough to play on. Our main concerns for changing surface type is the speed of our infield and players not being able to pick up the ball off the bat. We want to make sure that if we go with the field conditioner that if we field master the field it will mix with our existing aglime and ruin a big investment on our playing surface. Any suggestions you may have would be of great assistance. Thank you for you time, Damian P.

Answer: Damian, thanks for your question. We have had several people ask about this same problem. While I don’t like aglime as an infield mix, I think that using Diamond Pro Red Infield Conditioner to improve the playability of your infield is an excellent choice.

Check out to “how to” section of our website for instructions and Follow the steps as if you had a dirt infield. I think you will find that the incorporation of infield conditioner will help you hold more moisture in your infield. Also, by using it as a topdressing, you will, over time, give your surface a darker tint, reduce the glare and your players will be able to see the ball better.